Fernie is one of those towns that looks like it’ll be simple.
A cute little mountain main street. A handful of heritage buildings. A few trails. A brewery. Done.
And then you arrive and realize you’ve entered a place that somehow contains: a wildly dramatic history, an absurd amount of outdoor beauty, and at least one “how is this real?” destination that makes you rethink your entire road trip schedule. That was us.

We kicked off our BC road trip in Fernie—me (Nomadic Samuel), Audrey Bergner (That Backpacker), and our baby daughter (Aurelia). We’re living in southern Alberta right now, so being back in my home province of British Columbia hits me in the feels… plus a mild identity crisis where I briefly consider moving back immediately and living off bagels and mountain air.
To be blunt…Fernie exceeded our expectations. And because I want your Fernie trip to feel easy (not chaotic, rushed, or weirdly stressful for a town that’s basically the definition of charming), here are the 10 mistakes first-timers make—and the simple fixes that keep the trip smooth.
Fernie in one glance
| Fernie vibe | What it feels like | What to prioritize |
|---|---|---|
| Small-town BC charm | Walkable, friendly, low-key | Museum + heritage stroll + good food |
| Outdoors overload | Lakes, forests, peaks, waterfalls | A lake loop + one proper hike |
| Not Banff (and that’s the point) | Less crushed by crowds | Slow down and let Fernie be Fernie |
The 10 mistakes (quick cheat sheet)
| Mistake | What it costs you | Do this instead |
|---|---|---|
| 1) Treating Fernie like a “quick stop” town | Rushed days + missed magic | Split it into Town Day + Nature Day |
| 2) Skipping the Fernie Museum | You miss the story of the place | Start there (it’s donation-based) Fernie Museum | Fernie, British Columbia |
| 3) Wandering without the Heritage Walk | Random walking, less meaning | Grab the heritage walk brochure + pick a route |
| 4) Planning your best views on your haziest day | “Is it supposed to look like this?” | Keep one big scenic stop flexible |
| 5) Botching breakfast timing | Hangry hiking + wasted time | Bagel-fuel early, then go explore |
| 6) Starting Fairy Creek Falls without using the Visitor Centre | Bathroom pain + map confusion | Park at the Visitor Centre, then hike |
| 7) Being casual about bear basics | Stress + second-guessing | Check info, make noise, hike smart |
| 8) Assuming the brewery is a full meal | You’re still hungry | Brewery = reward stop, not lunch |
| 9) Underestimating Island Lake Lodge logistics | You rush the highlight | Block real time: drive + lunch + lake trail |
| 10) Trying to “do Fernie” like it’s a checklist | You miss the vibe | Build buffers and wander on purpose |

Mistake #1: Treating Fernie like a “quick stop” instead of giving it a proper exploration
This is the classic road trip trap: you roll into town thinking, “We’ll just do a few things,” and then you look at your watch at 6:40 p.m. and realize you’ve been sprinting from stop to stop like you’re auditioning for a travel-themed reality show.
Fernie feels small, but it’s sneaky. The magic is spread out between downtown, heritage spots, lakeside strolls, trailheads, and then the bigger “holy wow” places that aren’t right on the main drag. If you try to mash everything into one day, you don’t get Fernie—you get Fernie-flavored exhaustion.
What worked for us was simple: Day 1 was orientation and town time (history, walking, soaking in the vibe). Day 2 was nature time (breakfast fuel, lake stroll, waterfall hike, beer reward, then the scenic mic drop). Suddenly Fernie wasn’t “busy”—it was balanced.
Do this instead: Give Fernie a rhythm.
- A “town day” where you walk, learn the story, wander without pressure.
- A “nature day” where you start early, move your body, and earn your snacks like a noble mountain goblin.
You’ll leave feeling like you actually experienced the place, not like you ran through it.

Mistake #2: Skipping the Fernie Museum and missing the entire point of the town
Some places you can understand just by walking around.
Fernie is not one of those places.
Fernie has a history that is complicated—tragedy, resilience, reinvention, and this stubborn refusal to disappear. The museum is where that story clicks. And once it clicks, the rest of your trip gets deeper. You’re no longer just looking at pretty buildings and mountain views—you’re seeing a town that rebuilt itself over and over.
The Fernie Museum is also one of those rare unicorn attractions that feels genuinely welcoming and low pressure. Admission is by donation, which I love, because it’s basically the museum saying: “Come in, learn something, support us if you can, and then go stare at mountains with context.”
The history highlights we took away are jaw-dropping:
- The 1902 coal mining disaster that killed 130 people.
- Fires in 1904 and then again in 1908, with the 1908 Great Fire destroying the entire town in about 90 minutes. That’s not a typo. Ninety minutes.
- The 1923 Home Bank scandal, where people lost huge sums of money and trust was shattered.
- The 1986 closure of the last underground mine.
- Then the 1990s reinvention: Fernie turns into a tourism destination built around trails, skiing, lakes, forests, and that “small-town BC vibe” that’s basically a national treasure.
And then there’s the extra tidbit that makes Fernie even more interesting: during Prohibition, it was an ideal rum runner location because of its position near the Alberta border and the U.S. border. That’s the kind of detail that makes you walk down the street imagining bootleggers in wool coats doing suspicious business behind a charming storefront.
Here’s why this matters: Fernie isn’t just “pretty.” It’s spectacular, yes, but it’s also a place with grit. When you understand that, your stroll through town changes. You notice details. You appreciate what survived and what had to be rebuilt. Your trip gets a backbone.
And personally? The museum hit me because it reminded me of my hometown, Gold River on Vancouver Island—another BC place shaped by industry, boom-and-bust cycles, and the complicated emotional reality of communities that have to reinvent themselves when the original economic engine changes. Fernie has that same “we’re not done yet” energy.
Do this instead: Start your trip at the museum. Even if you think you’re “not a museum person.” Fernie will make you a museum person for at least one afternoon.

Mistake #3: Wandering downtown without doing the Heritage Walk (and missing the easy charm)
Fernie is walkable. Fernie is charming. Fernie is family-friendly. These are all true.
But you know what takes it from “nice walk” to “this is a great morning”? Having a simple goal. That’s why the Heritage Walk brochure is such a win. We grabbed it at the museum and suddenly our wander had purpose: 16 historic buildings scattered around town like a low-key scavenger hunt.
If you’re traveling as a couple, it’s fun. If you’re traveling with a baby, it’s brilliant, because you can move at stroller pace and still feel like you’re “doing something.” And if your baby is like ours—thrilled to be outside, hypnotized by flowers and butterflies—then the Heritage Walk becomes a perfect framework for a day that’s gentle and satisfying.
One of our first little moments in Fernie was walking around City Hall with flowers in bloom. It’s not dramatic. It’s not adrenaline. It’s just… pleasant. And that’s part of the point. Not everything has to be a bucket-list spectacle. Sometimes the best travel memories are: sunshine, flowers, a calm stroller walk, and realizing you’re actually relaxed.
Do this instead: Use the Heritage Walk as your “town day spine.”
Pick 5–7 buildings you’re genuinely excited to see, and don’t stress about completing all 16. Fernie is not a homework assignment. It’s a vibe. The brochure just gives your vibe a route.

Mistake #4: Planning your biggest scenic moments on the wrong day (because mountains love chaos)
Mountain weather has the personality of a cat. It will do what it wants. It will not explain itself. And it will absolutely change right when you’ve decided your entire day depends on clear visibility.
We had a day where visibility wasn’t ideal, then the next day it improved and suddenly everything popped. The mountains looked sharper, the air felt better, and we were like: “Ohhhhhh. That’s what it’s supposed to look like.”
This matters because Fernie has stops that are “nice” regardless of conditions (museum, heritage stroll, lunch spots) and stops that become legendary when the weather cooperates (lakes, waterfall hikes, big viewpoint moments, Island Lake Lodge).
Do this instead: Keep your “wow stop” flexible.
If the day is hazy or drizzly, lean into:
- the museum
- heritage buildings
- a cozy meal
- a gentle town walk
Then save your big scenery day for when Fernie decides to show off. Because when Fernie shows off, it doesn’t do subtle.

Mistake #5: Sleeping on breakfast strategy (and starting the day behind)
Fernie is outdoors-forward. And outdoors-forward towns punish bad breakfast decisions.
If you start your day with “we’ll figure it out,” you’ll lose time, get hangry, and end up eating something sad right before a hike. Fernie deserves better than sad travel food.
We hit Big Bang Bagels on Day Two and it was exactly what you want before a nature-heavy day: quick, filling, good variety, plenty of people grabbing bagels and coffee to go. It’s a local favorite for a reason.
We “got banged,” as the locals would say. (I’m fully committed to this being a thing, even if the locals have never once said it.)
I went for The Avo Launcher. Audrey got a smoked salmon variety that made her feel like the responsible adult in the relationship. Indoor and outdoor seating, a steady buzz, and the kind of breakfast that makes you feel like you can conquer a trail even if your cardio is currently negotiating terms.
Do this instead: Anchor your nature day with a real breakfast.
Go early, eat properly, and treat breakfast like the foundation of your day rather than a minor detail. The hike is coming. The baby backpack workout is coming. The beer reward is coming. Respect the process.
Mistake #6: Doing Fairy Creek Falls without using the Visitor Centre as your launch pad
The Fernie Visitor Centre is not just a building where you politely collect a map and leave.
It is a strategic asset.
We parked there before heading to Fairy Creek Falls, and it made the whole thing smoother: clean bathrooms (travel parents, you know), friendly staff, trail maps, and that feeling of “we’re starting this correctly” instead of “we’re guessing and hoping for the best.”
And listen, as a parent, a good bathroom situation isn’t just convenient—it’s wonderbar.
The hike itself is exactly the kind of Fernie experience that makes first-timers fall in love: beautiful scenery, a real sense of being in nature, and a payoff waterfall that feels like you earned it. We had baby Aurelia in the hiking backpack carrier, which meant she was riding in comfort like a tiny CEO while I was sweating like a servant and calling it “my workout today.”
I love hiking with a baby because it’s both adorable and humbling. You’re doing weighted training and the baby is just… vibing. Occasionally looking around like, “Nice. Continue. Zzzzzz.”
And the timing—of course—was perfect. Baby woke up right as we hit the waterfall, like she has an internal travel algorithm calibrated for scenic highlights.
Do this instead: Start at the Visitor Centre, ask about trail conditions, then go.
And if you’re hiking with a baby:
- expect to move slower
- budget extra time
- bring snacks and patience
- accept that your “easy hike” is now strength training
Fernie doesn’t judge. Fernie rewards effort.
Mistake #7: Being either too casual or too panicked about bears (instead of calmly bear-smart)
If you hike in mountain towns, bears are part of the reality. The trick is not to spiral into fear, and not to pretend it’s irrelevant. Fernie is wild in the best way. Act accordingly.
On our hike there were lots of people on the trail, which helps. More people can mean more noise and less surprise-factor, and it made us feel more relaxed. But “lots of people” isn’t a magical force field. It’s just one helpful variable.
The best approach is boring and practical, which is exactly what you want when it comes to wildlife safety:
- check in locally if there’s been recent activity
- make noise in quieter sections
- stay aware at blind corners
- bring bear spray / whistle whenever possible (admittedly we didn’t)
- don’t let earbuds turn you into a silent prey-shaped human
Do this instead: Be bear-smart, not bear-stressed.
Fernie trails are incredible. You don’t want to skip them because of fear; yet, you don’t want to be careless. Just be respectful and practical.
Mistake #8: Treating Fernie Brewing Company like your meal plan
We hit Fernie Brewing Company after the hike, and let me tell you: we earned that drink.
I had a Ridgewalk Red Ale and it tasted like victory.
But here’s the key mistake first-timers make: assuming the brewery is going to be a full meal stop. It’s more of a pints and snacks situation. Think salty chips and “this is an appetizer stop” energy—not “we’re starving and need a burger immediately.”
And honestly, that’s fine. It’s actually perfect. Fernie Brewing works best as:
- a post-hike reward
- a mellow sit-down moment
- a “let’s toast to being outside and not dropping the baby backpack into a creek” break
Do this instead: Treat the brewery like a reward stop, not lunch.
Build a proper meal into your plan elsewhere (or plan your big lunch at Island Lake Lodge and let the brewery be the celebratory bridge to it).
Mistake #9: Underestimating Island Lake Lodge (and not giving it the time it deserves)
Island Lake Lodge is where Fernie went from “this town is great” to “Wowzers, this scenery is next level. Worldclass.”
This was the highlight of our day. Possibly the highlight of the trip. And we didn’t even know you could stay overnight until we got there, which triggered immediate future planning and a small mental montage of a winter snowstorm stay where we “accidentally” get stuck for three or more days. Audrey was the one who joked about it. I did not hate the idea. I even offered to do dishes. That’s how you know a place is special—when I’m volunteering for chores like it’s a negotiation tactic.
The drive out is part of the experience: around 30 minutes on back roads, and then suddenly you arrive in a place that feels like Banff or Lake Louise in terms of beauty, but without the “we’re surrounded by a thousand people holding selfie sticks” energy. It’s old-growth forest vibes, towering peaks, and a lake that looks like it should come with orchestral music.
Lunch at Bear Bistro was freakin’ phenomenal. Audrey had ramen that made her feel like she’d teleported back to Japan. I had a smashed burger that gave me serious Shake Shack vibes—two patties, that perfect salty-greasy balance, the kind of thing you eat and immediately become a nicer person. Dessert was next-level: a salted caramel ice cream sandwich and a Jos Louis-style cake situation with marshmallow vibes that felt like a childhood snack but upgraded into something fancy enough to justify the drive.
And then, like the tiny travel legend she is, Aurelia slept through the meal. Slept. Through. The meal. Then woke up for the lakeside trail, because she runs her own schedule and it is apparently optimized for peak enjoyment.
The lake trail after lunch is the kind of gentle walk that makes you feel like you’re inside a postcard. You can sit in those chairs by the water and just… exist. And you can also canoe here, which immediately got filed under “next time” because Fernie has a habit of making you say “next time” a lot.
Do this instead: Block real time for Island Lake Lodge.
Don’t squeeze it in like an afterthought. Give it:
- the drive time
- a proper lunch
- sit-and-stare time (non-negotiable)
- a lakeside stroll
- photo time
- and a slow exit, because you will not want to leave
If you rush Island Lake Lodge, you’ll still like it—but you’ll feel like you didn’t let it land. And places like that deserve to land.
Mistake #10: Trying to “complete” Fernie instead of letting Fernie be Fernie
Fernie isn’t a checklist destination. It’s not a “see 12 highlights in 8 hours” kind of place. It’s a town that’s best experienced in the in-between moments: the strolls, the stops, the small surprises, the feeling of being somewhere that’s spectacular without trying too hard.
One of my strongest takeaways from Fernie is that it feels like small-town BC at its VERY best. It’s not Banff. It’s not overrun. It still feels like a real place with a real story and a real community. It has that rare balance of being wildly scenic and still grounded.
And then you hear fun little cultural bits—like how Kiwis and Aussies flock here for summer and winter seasons—and it reminds you that Fernie isn’t just a local gem. It’s quietly global. People who love mountain life find it. People who want trails and skiing and lakes and forests find it. Fernie has it all and then some.
Two days in Fernie barely scratched the surface. There are so many trails we didn’t touch, so many outdoor spots we didn’t even get to. And yet it still felt complete because we didn’t try to bulldoze through it. We gave it time. We gave it breathing room. We let the baby dictate the pace in the best way (because honestly, she’s the most natural traveler of the three of us).
Do this instead: Travel Fernie like a human, not like a spreadsheet.
Build your day around a few anchors:
- one main activity (museum or hike)
- one gentle stroll (heritage walk, City Hall gardens, Maiden Lake)
- one great meal
- one reward stop (brewery, dessert, coffee)
- and buffer time so you don’t feel rushed
That’s the Fernie formula. It’s not complicated. It’s just… sane.
A Fernie-first-timer “let’s this wrap-up neatly” (so your trip feels easy)
If you want Fernie to feel smooth:
- Start with history (museum) so the town has meaning.
- Use the Heritage Walk so your downtown time has structure without stress.
- Choose your scenic day based on visibility and weather.
- Fuel properly (bagels first, adventures second).
- Start hikes from smart bases (Visitor Centre is a gift).
- Be calm and practical about wildlife.
- Treat the brewery like a reward, not your dinner plan.
- Give Island Lake Lodge the time it deserves.
- And for the love of all that is holy, stop trying to “finish” Fernie in one visit.
Fernie exceeded our expectations. It gave us charm, history, nature, and that feeling of being back in BC that I can’t properly explain without getting a bit sentimental and making everyone else uncomfortable (so I’ll stop here).
But yeah. Fernie’s the real deal. Heck yeah. We’ll be back.
