When I first visited the Temples of Angkor back in 2008 I was totally fixated on Angkor Wat. Little did I know at the time just how impressive the Temples of Angkor are in their entirety. One of the temples that caught my attention immediately was the well-known and richly decorated Prasat Bayon. With its plethora of stone cold smiling faces, this early 13th century looms large at the centre of Buddhist King Jayavarman VII empire – the once former capital of Angkor Thom.
The massive stone faces (equally as impressive both at a distant and from close proximity) dominate the complex. When I first came back in 2008, I was able to explore Bayon without hardly noticing a single other soul along the way. These days, it’s one of the main draws for package tourists and the only way to have it mostly to yourself is to haul yourself out of bed very early in the morning (5 am start is recommended) while most of the tour buses are parked outside Angkor Wat for sunrise.
Visiting Bayon Temple + The Terrace of Elephants
Bayon is also noted for its formidable sets of bas-reliefs carvings which represent a host of different scenes and interpretations ranging from historical to mythological.
My second favorite ruined temple complex in the walled city of Angkor Thom is the imposing Terrace of the Elephants. Once used as the terrace / platform from which to observe king Jayavarman’s triumphant victorious army, the sheer sense of scale of this 350 meter long massive wall is only appreciated by walking along beside it. The wall is richly decorated by elephants that are more distinct to the eye from a distance than they are up close.
Although the days of having Angkor Thom – specifically Bayon and Terrace of the Elephant temples – to yourself is long gone, it’s still one of the most impressive complex areas in all of Angkor and a place I highly recommend taking your time to thoroughly explore. This following is a photo essay and travel video from my time visiting Angkor Thom:
Faces of Bayon: Temples Of Angkor
Massive stone face smile up close at Bayon, Angkor Thom.
Depending on what time of day and/or the weather conditions really adds a different perspective to the faces.
Traditional Khmer dances wearing elaborate costumes greet tourists at Bayon.
A low angle perspective shot of the bas-relief sculpture at Bayon, Angkor Thom.
A far away vantage point angle of tourists climbing up the many steps to reach the top of Bayon.
I once read that the faces of Bayon were meant to resemble the King.
The most fascinating aspect of Bayon, in my opinion, were the areas of the temple that you couldn’t climb near the top.
The Terrace of Elephants along Angkor Thom.
Another shot of the faces of Bayon with shadows and highlights.
These statues lined the bridge leading up to Angkor Thom.
A group photo of the dancers wearing their costumes and posing for the shot.
A closer up shot of the Terrace of Elephants.
Another shot of the statues at a different time of day.
One more shot of the Terrace of Elephants wall – Angkor Thom, Cambodia.
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Our travel video from Bayon, Angkor Thom
Bayon Temple History
Nestled in the heart of Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple is a true architectural marvel of the Khmer Empire, dating back to the late 12th century. Commissioned by King Jayavarman VII, Bayon is not just any temple—it’s the state temple of a once-mighty empire, and its unique features make it stand out among the many wonders of Angkor. What immediately captivates visitors are the 54 towers, each adorned with four massive, serene faces that gaze out in every direction. These faces, believed to be representations of either the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara or the king himself, seem to watch over the temple grounds with an enigmatic smile, creating an atmosphere of peace and spirituality.
- The Smiling Faces: The iconic smiling faces of Bayon are perhaps its most striking feature. With their serene, almost otherworldly expressions, these faces are thought to symbolize compassion, wisdom, and introspection. As you walk among them, it’s easy to feel a deep connection to the spirituality that permeates the temple.
A Blend of Religions and Cultures
Bayon’s history is as layered as its architecture. Originally constructed as a Buddhist temple, it reflects King Jayavarman VII’s devotion to Mahayana Buddhism. However, as the empire transitioned back to Hinduism under later rulers, Hindu elements were incorporated into the temple’s design. This blending of religious influences makes Bayon a fascinating study in cultural and religious syncretism.
- Buddhist Foundations: The temple’s initial design was deeply influenced by Mahayana Buddhism, as seen in the serene expressions of the faces and the numerous Buddha images throughout the temple. These elements highlight the king’s desire to present himself as a compassionate and wise ruler.
- Hindu Revisions: After the death of Jayavarman VII, subsequent rulers added Hindu elements to Bayon, including depictions of Hindu deities and mythological scenes. This layered religious symbolism adds to the temple’s complexity and historical significance.
The Bas-Reliefs: Stories Carved in Stone
One of Bayon’s most remarkable features is its extensive bas-reliefs, which cover the temple’s outer galleries. These carvings provide a vivid, detailed narrative of the Khmer Empire’s life and times, from epic battles to everyday scenes of market life, fishing, and festivities. The craftsmanship is astonishing, with each panel offering a glimpse into the empire’s culture, beliefs, and history.
- Scenes of Daily Life: The bas-reliefs are not just about grand events; they also depict the ordinary lives of the Khmer people. You’ll see scenes of markets bustling with activity, people enjoying music and dance, and fishermen at work—each panel a snapshot of a moment in time.
- Mythology and Warfare: Interwoven with these everyday scenes are depictions of epic battles and mythological tales. These carvings not only illustrate the military might of the Khmer Empire but also its rich tapestry of legends and religious beliefs.
Why Bayon Temple is an Unmissable Experience
Visiting Bayon is not just about seeing an ancient temple—it’s about stepping into the heart of Khmer civilization. The temple’s unique blend of spiritual, cultural, and historical elements offers a deeply immersive experience. The faces of Bayon seem to transcend time, inviting visitors to reflect on the spiritual and cultural heritage of Cambodia.
- A Spiritual Journey: As you explore Bayon, you’re not just visiting a historical site; you’re embarking on a spiritual journey. The faces that watch over you, the stories carved into the stone, and the temple’s serene atmosphere all combine to create a space that invites contemplation and introspection.
- A Window into the Past: Bayon is a living museum of Khmer history, where every stone has a story to tell. Whether it’s the shift from Buddhism to Hinduism or the everyday lives of the people, Bayon offers an unparalleled glimpse into the life of an ancient civilization.
Terrace Of Elephants Wall History
The Terrace of the Elephants, located within the ancient city of Angkor Thom, was constructed in the late 12th century under the reign of King Jayavarman VII. This impressive 350-meter-long platform served as a grand viewing stand for the king and his court to watch military processions, games, and public ceremonies. The terrace’s name comes from the intricate carvings of elephants that adorn its walls, showcasing the significance of these majestic creatures in Khmer culture.
- The Elephant Carvings: The terrace is renowned for its detailed bas-reliefs depicting elephants in various scenes, including hunting and ceremonial processions. These carvings are not only artistic marvels but also provide insight into the importance of elephants in royal symbolism and the daily life of the Khmer Empire.
Historical Significance
The Terrace of the Elephants is a key piece of Angkor’s architectural and cultural history. It was part of a larger complex that included the royal palace and other important structures. The terrace itself was used as a platform for the king to observe his troops and for public gatherings, making it a central hub of activity in the royal city.
- Royal Pageantry: The terrace was the stage for royal pageantry, where the power and glory of the Khmer Empire were displayed. Imagine the king, his court, and foreign dignitaries all gathered here, with the grand spectacles of military might and cultural performances unfolding before them.
Why the Terrace of the Elephants is a Must-Visit
What makes the Terrace of the Elephants a unique experience for visitors is the sense of history that permeates the site. As you walk along the terrace you can almost hear the echoes of ancient ceremonies.
- Architectural Grandeur: The terrace is a testament to the architectural prowess of the Khmer Empire. The scale of the structure and the intricacy of the carvings highlight the empire’s ability to combine functionality with artistic beauty.
- A Step Back in Time: Visiting the Terrace of the Elephants offers a tangible connection to the past. It’s a place where you can imagine the grandeur of Angkor Thom in its prime, filled with the sights and sounds of royal ceremonies.
Angkor Thom History
Angkor Thom, meaning “Great City,” was the last capital of the Khmer Empire. Founded in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, it was designed as a fortress, symbolizing the empire’s strength. The city is enclosed by an imposing wall and a wide moat, which adds to its grandeur. It’s a place where you can feel the echoes of history.
- Five Grand Gates: The city’s five gates, each adorned with serene faces, are both awe-inspiring and symbolic. They represent protection and divine guardianship, welcoming you into the ancient world of the Khmer.
A City of Temples and Art
Angkor Thom is home to some of the most significant temples and monuments in Cambodia. At its center lies the Bayon Temple, famous for its towering stone faces that exude a quiet serenity. The city also boasts the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King, both of which are intricately carved with scenes of mythological and royal significance.
- Bayon Temple: This is the heart of Angkor Thom. With its 216 giant stone faces, Bayon is both mysterious and mesmerizing. The temple’s design reflects the artistic heights of the Khmer Empire.
- Terraces of Power: The terraces were used for royal ceremonies and public audiences. Walking along these terraces, you can imagine the grandeur of the Khmer court, with its processions and rituals.
Why Angkor Thom Stands Out
Visiting Angkor Thom is like stepping into a different era. It’s a journey through the height of the Khmer Empire. The city’s massive scale and the artistry of its temples offer a unique experience. Every corner of Angkor Thom tells a story, from the monumental gates to the intricate carvings on the temple walls.
- A Living History: Angkor Thom is not just ruins; it’s a city that still breathes with the life of its past. The mix of Hindu and Buddhist influences, combined with the grand scale of the architecture, makes it an unforgettable destination.
- Architectural Mastery: The combination of religious symbolism and architectural grandeur is what makes Angkor Thom truly unique. It’s a place where you can witness the pinnacle of Khmer art and engineering.
Tips For Visiting Angkor Archaeological Park In Siem Reap
Start Early to Beat the Heat
Angkor Archaeological Park is vast, and the Cambodian sun can be intense. To make the most of your visit, start early. The park opens at 5:00 AM, so you can catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat, one of the most breathtaking experiences in the park. Plus, the early morning light is perfect for photography, and the cooler temperatures make exploring more comfortable.
- Sunrise at Angkor Wat: Arrive before dawn to witness the iconic silhouette of Angkor Wat against the rising sun. It’s a popular activity, so expect some crowds, but the view is well worth it.
Plan Your Route Wisely
The park is home to over 70 temples, so it’s essential to plan your route to avoid backtracking and maximize your time. Focus on a mix of the major temples, like Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm, and some of the lesser-known but equally fascinating sites. Hiring a guide or using a map can help you navigate the complex layout of the park.
- Three-Day Pass: Consider purchasing a three-day pass to explore the park at a relaxed pace. This allows you to fully immerse yourself in the history and beauty of Angkor without feeling rushed.
Stay Hydrated and Take Breaks
Walking around the temples can be exhausting, especially in the heat. Bring plenty of water, wear light clothing, and take breaks in the shaded areas. Many vendors around the park sell drinks and snacks, but it’s wise to bring your own water bottle and some energy-boosting snacks.
- Dress Appropriately: Remember that Angkor is a religious site, so dress respectfully. Wear clothes that cover your shoulders and knees to show respect and comply with the park’s guidelines.
Respect the Temples
While exploring, remember that Angkor Archaeological Park is not just a tourist attraction; it’s a sacred site for many Cambodians. Avoid touching the carvings, climbing on the structures, or leaving litter behind. Being mindful of your actions helps preserve these ancient treasures for future generations.
- Photography Etiquette: While photography is allowed, be mindful of where you’re pointing your camera. Avoid taking pictures of people without their permission, especially monks, and refrain from using flash in dark temple interiors.
Great photos, you really captured the faces. We spent a week in Siem Reap and 3 full days exploring all the temples. Bayon was for us the most impressive and I think most people going there are surprised at that because they automatically think Angkor Wat is going to be the highlight. You’ve done a good job describing some of the other temples like Ta Prohm and Banteay Srei which are also great in different ways. Its amazing the variety and differences in the temples.
We did a giant post breaking down all the temples and which have to seen: http://bbqboy.net/ancient-angkor-and-the-top-10-temples-of-angkor-wat-archaeological-park/. I think we are also going to end up going back – there is so much to see and the first time is more of a getting acquainted thing. Next time we’ll know which temples we want to see again and will make sure to see them in the right time of day. That’s also important at Angkor.
Great post!
Frank (bbqboy)
The photos here seem to invite me to visit the country in the near future. 🙂
Just incredible photography! We plan on visiting Asia next year and this place is now on the list (the list is getting pretty long).
Thanks Nicole, definitely it would be worth while visiting the Temples of Angkor in Siem Reap if at all possible 🙂
Sigh, looking at those pictures makes me sad because I was supposed to visit Cambodia last year with a co-worker who’s from there, but she never updated me on the trip. Your pictures make up for it though 🙂
Beautiful photography! Really inspiring, makes we want to pack my bags and my camera right now! Thanks for putting another place on my to do list 🙂
Incredible photos! Really reminds me of our trip to Ayutthaya just outside Bangkok last year. Beautiful and amazing architecture!
Curious, did you like Bayon more than Angkor Wat?
This was the last temple we visited last week and this was my favorite!
Stayed here to finish off the temple visits, and this was the only temple that left me longing to stay longer.
Lots of corners where one can take a rest too.
They are each different in their own way, but I really liked the faces of Bayon. 🙂
I’ve been to Angkor three times, in 2001, 2005, and 2010. It definitely gets more and more crowded every year, but I agree that the Bayon still has it’s appeal. It’s one of my favorites. In fact, if I go back to Angkor for a 4th time, I’ll definitely be stopping at the Bayon for some photos (and doing my best to pick a time of day with minimal crowds…. I think noon or 1pm when it’s hot and most people are eating lunch is also a pretty good time to be there).
I have to agree, I’ve noticed more and more crowds as the years have gone by. More people are discovering this not so hidden gem. 🙂
What a beautiful place. I have heard of it so much. Hope I visit it someday in the future. Thanks for sharing the pictures 🙂
Thanks Arti! It’s definitely a must see temple when visiting Angkor 🙂
So many wonderful photos.
You really make me want to go there!
Thank you very much! I sure hope you can go there soon 🙂
This is crazy! Do they still crush the statues? Talking about the new heads on the sides of the bridge…
Wow! I have no idea if they still do that.
It seems like they do. The front heads on the bridge are newly produced, and they have been damaged… I guess by some local vandals
Great photos! We visited in February and loved exploring the temples. (There are photos on our travel blog too.)
Thanks Lori! I think you likely experienced much nicer weather than we just did 😉
Beautiful images that encourage me to visit x
Thank you Anisha! That’s the nicest compliment anyone could say to me 🙂
BEAUTIFUL photographs! Stop me in my tracks awesome, well done. I’ve been, I’m going again soon, I’ll really work on my photography this time!
Thanks Alyson, looking forward to seeing how you capture the beauty of this wonderful temple 🙂