Visiting Sihanoukville, Cambodia: Beach Paradise Ruined With Garbage

As I set foot on Serendipity Beach my mind cast back to my first backpacking trip in 2008 when I first marvelled at the beaches located in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. This popular beach town was once described by the Lonely Planet as follows: “Surrounded by white-sand beaches and as-yet undeveloped tropical islands, Sihanoukville (Kompong Som) is Cambodia’s premier seaside resort.” However, as the warmth of the white sand penetrated my toes I was on guard trying not to step on what seemed like an infinite trail of garbage. In just over several years time this once ‘nice alternative’ to the crowded Thai beach scene has turned from a small slice of paradise into a complete and utter dump.

Beaches at Sihanoukville, Cambodia Destroyed by Over Tourism

I’ve come to realize over the years that it can be dangerous to romanticize a place in your mind to the point you expect things to be the same when you return again in the future. I’ve seen destinations take a turn for the worse. On the other hand, I’ve seen positive development as well. Unfortunately, I’ve never quite seen anything as bad as this. This wasn’t just a few pieces of garbage that littered the once pristine sands – this was a complete dump. Audrey and I spotted discarded flip flops, used condoms, pregnancy tests, broken beer and spirit bottles, fish netting and even construction materials. My heart sank a little after every footstep.

How did it get this bad?

I feel as though all parties are to blame in this type of situation. Shame on the young backpackers who come here and irresponsibly discard their waste on the beach like immature teenagers. Equally, shame on the locals and business owners who haven’t taken the measures to preserve this area for future generations.

Audrey and I are celebrating our one year anniversary. Instead of enjoying activities on the beach we’re now considering alternative measures. We had planned staying for roughly a week to enjoy some down time and to get caught up on work. Now, our plan to ‘sort of’ salvage this situation is to check into a nice hotel with a fancy room and pool. Instead of enjoying the splendours of a natural beauty we’re now resigned to creating our own artificial temporary oasis.

I’m left feeling a sense of shame as a backpacker. For all those who travel for the right reasons (to experience new cultures, sample new foods and interact with locals in a positive manner) there are far too many who come to places in far off corners of the world without any sense of moral responsibility or respect to that given area. Sihanoukville is exhibit A: …

from paradise to paradise ruined!

Sihanoukville Garbage Problem

Sihanoukville, once a jewel of Cambodia’s coastline, is grappling with a severe garbage problem. The rapid and often unregulated development of the city, fueled by a boom in construction, tourism, and foreign investment, has outpaced the local infrastructure’s ability to manage waste. As a result, visitors are often confronted with the sight of trash-strewn streets, beaches littered with plastic, and overflowing bins that mar the city’s natural beauty.

• Urban Expansion and Waste Management: The city’s rapid expansion has strained its waste management systems. New hotels, casinos, and businesses have sprung up at a pace that local services simply can’t keep up with, leading to a situation where garbage collection is inconsistent and inadequate.

Impact on the Visitor Experience

For tourists, the garbage issue is more than a minor inconvenience; it significantly impacts their experience of Sihanoukville. The beaches, which were once pristine, are now dotted with debris, making it difficult to enjoy the coastal scenery. The smell of decaying waste can linger in the air, especially in densely populated areas, detracting from the enjoyment of outdoor activities and dining experiences.

• Environmental and Health Concerns: The unchecked accumulation of garbage poses serious environmental and health risks. Plastic pollution is particularly problematic, threatening marine life and the health of the coastal ecosystem. Visitors may also be concerned about the potential for waterborne diseases and other health hazards related to poor sanitation.

Efforts to Combat the Crisis

Despite the severity of the problem, there are ongoing efforts to address the garbage crisis in Sihanoukville. Local authorities, NGOs, and community groups are working together to improve waste management and raise awareness about the importance of environmental conservation. Initiatives include increased investment in waste collection infrastructure, community clean-up drives, and educational campaigns aimed at both residents and tourists.

• Community Involvement: Grassroots efforts have been instrumental in tackling the garbage issue. Local businesses, environmental organizations, and concerned citizens have organized clean-up events and lobbied for better waste management practices. These initiatives, while impactful, highlight the need for more systemic and long-term solutions.

Why Sihanoukville’s Situation is Unique

The garbage problem in Sihanoukville is a stark reminder of the challenges that come with rapid, unchecked development. It serves as a case study of how a destination can quickly go from being a paradise to a polluted environment without proper planning and regulation. For visitors, it offers a unique, if sobering, glimpse into the environmental impact of mass tourism and urbanization.

• A Call for Responsible Tourism: Visiting Sihanoukville amidst this crisis provides an opportunity for tourists to engage in responsible tourism. By being mindful of their waste, supporting eco-friendly businesses, and participating in clean-up activities, visitors can contribute to the solution rather than exacerbate the problem.

Should You Still Visit Sihanoukville?

Let’s be honest: if you’ve landed on this article, you’re probably already wondering if Sihanoukville is worth your time at all.

The short answer?

As a destination in itself, not really.

As a necessary transit hub for islands and the rest of the coast, yes.

Sihanoukville today is a strange mix of construction, concrete, and pockets of beach that still hint at how beautiful the coastline once was. If you arrive with a picture of tropical paradise in your head, you’re almost guaranteed a reality check.

But if you treat it as a logistical stop, keep expectations low, and shift your “beach dreams” to the nearby islands and coastal towns, you can still have an incredible Cambodian coast trip.

Who Sihanoukville Works For Now

You might still include Sihanoukville in your itinerary if:

• You’re catching a ferry to Koh Rong or Koh Rong Sanloem
• You’ve found a good-value hotel with a pool and just want one lazy catch-up-on-life day
• You’re curious and prefer to see places with your own eyes, even if they’re messy and in transition
• You’re using it as a transport hub between Phnom Penh and the islands or the Vietnamese border

Who Should Skip It

You’re probably better off limiting or skipping Sihanoukville if:

• You’re dreaming of white-sand beaches right outside your guesthouse door
• You’re easily discouraged by rubbish, construction, and noise
• You only have a short trip and every day needs to be a highlight
• You hate feeling like you’re walking through a cautionary tale of overdevelopment

If that’s you, the move is simple: use Sihanoukville as a stepping stone, not the destination.

Using Sihanoukville as a Transit Hub (Not a Destination)

The most realistic way to work Sihanoukville into an itinerary is to treat it like a necessary layover airport: you pass through, you sleep, you move on.

How Many Nights Do You Actually Need?

• Ferries out in the morning:
  Arrive late afternoon/early evening → 1 night in Sihanoukville → early ferry next day.
• Returning from the islands:
  Afternoon ferry back → 1 night in Sihanoukville → bus/flight out the following day.

If timings line up perfectly, you might get away with not sleeping there at all, but a single night on either end tends to be less stressful than trying to chain everything back-to-back.

Where to Sleep for One Night

When you only need a place to crash between buses and boats, you’re looking for:

• Clean, functional rooms
• Reliable air-con and Wi-Fi
• A quiet-ish street away from the loudest bars and casinos
• Decent reviews for safety and staff

You’re not chasing character here; you’re chasing rest.
If there’s a pool and it doesn’t cost much extra, treat it as a consolation prize for having to stay in town in the first place.

Getting In and Out Smoothly

The key to not hating your time in Sihanoukville is minimizing faff.

• From Phnom Penh:
  Buses and minivans will drop you in or near town. From there, negotiate a tuk-tuk to your hotel first, then the pier the next day.
• From the airport:
  Expect a longer transfer than you’d like (it feels far). Pre-arranged pickup from your hotel can be worth the extra dollars.
• To the ferry piers:
  Agree on the tuk-tuk price before you get in. Build in a bit of extra time—things can be chaotic around boat departure times.

Think of it like a game: your mission is to get in, sleep, and leave with minimum drama.

Cleaner Alternatives Along Cambodia’s Coast

The good news is that the rest of the Cambodian coast is not Sihanoukville. There are still places where the sea is clear, the beaches are relatively clean, and the vibe feels like travel, not just development.

Here’s a quick comparison.

Koh Rong: Island Vibes and Mixed Energy

Koh Rong is the island that everyone talks about first.

You’ll find:

• Busier areas with bars, parties, and late nights
• Quieter stretches of sand if you’re willing to walk or boat a bit further
• Snorkeling, diving, kayaking, and sunset-watching all within easy reach

If you still want a bit of backpacker buzz but with far cleaner water than the mainland beaches, this is usually the top pick.

Tips:

• Bring enough cash—ATMs aren’t always reliable.
• Pack a dry bag for boat transfers; landings can be wet.
• Expect patchy Wi-Fi and power in more remote corners.

Koh Rong Sanloem: Hammocks, Not Happy Hours

If Koh Rong is the louder sibling, Koh Rong Sanloem is the introvert.

Think:

• Wooden bungalows tucked into trees
• Soft sand and calm bays
• Evenings dominated by card games, books, and the sound of waves

You can still find a cocktail and a decent meal, but the energy here is more “nap in a hammock” than “bucket drinks and neon paint.”

It’s a great place to decompress, especially if Sihanoukville’s reality has left you feeling a bit gutted.

Kampot: River Life and Rustic Countryside

Kampot doesn’t have a show-stopping beach, but it has something else: atmosphere.

The town sits along a river, with old shop-houses, cafes, and guesthouses lining the banks. From here you can:

• Take a river cruise at sunset
• Visit pepper plantations in the countryside
• Explore nearby caves, waterfalls, and rural villages by scooter or bicycle

Kampot suits you if you like slower travel, long coffees, and day trips rather than lying on the sand all day.

Kep: Crabs, Coastal Walks, and Quiet Nights

Tiny Kep is all about:

• Seafood – especially crab, cooked with piles of fresh green pepper
• The national park, with short, manageable trails and jungle views
• A coastline that’s more about rocky shorelines and small beaches than vast stretches of sand

Kep is ideal if you want to end your trip somewhere calm, eat well, and do gentle walks rather than big hikes.

Visiting Sihanoukville & Cambodia’s Coast: Honest Questions, Real Answers & Practical Tips

Is Sihanoukville still worth visiting or should I skip it completely?

Not really. As a destination in its own right, Sihanoukville has lost most of the charm it used to have, and the combination of garbage, construction, and casinos makes it a hard sell if you’re chasing “beach paradise.” Where it still makes sense is as a transit hub for the islands and other coastal towns—think one functional night on either side of a ferry rather than a week-long beach holiday. If you keep expectations low, focus your “good time” energy on Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem, Kampot, or Kep, and treat Sihanoukville like a layover, it can still fit into a great itinerary without ruining the trip.

How many nights should I plan in Sihanoukville if I’m just transiting to the islands?

It depends. The sweet spot for most people is one night on the way out and one night on the way back, purely for logistics. Arrive in the afternoon or evening, sleep, catch a morning ferry to the islands, then do the reverse on the way back so you’re not stressing about missed connections. If your bus, flight, and ferry times line up perfectly you can sometimes skip the overnight, but I’ve found giving yourself that buffer night massively reduces travel-day chaos.

Are the beaches in Sihanoukville really that bad now?

Yes. If you’re picturing the clean, chilled-out sand from old guidebooks, you’re going to be disappointed. Some stretches can look okay at a distance, but once you start walking you’ll often see plastic, construction debris, and random junk mixed in with the sand, especially near busier areas and after storms. There are pockets that are cleaner, usually near higher-end resorts that actively maintain their bit of shoreline, but overall it’s not a place I’d personally recommend for a classic “sea, sand, and sunsets” beach break anymore.

Is Sihanoukville safe for travelers right now?

Mostly. From a day-to-day perspective, the main issues are similar to other rapidly developing Southeast Asian cities: chaotic traffic, the odd bag snatch, and the usual mix of overzealous tuk-tuk drivers and late-night drunken drama. There have also been widely reported concerns around casinos and scam compounds in the wider area, but typical backpackers and holidaymakers don’t interact with those if they stick to normal tourist areas and ignore any sketchy job offers. As always, keep valuables close, avoid walking drunk and alone late at night, and use your accommodation’s safe when you can.

Where should I stay in Sihanoukville if I only need one night?

I’d aim for a simple, well-reviewed hotel or guesthouse that’s reasonably close to both the ferry piers and whatever bus or airport transfer you’re using, rather than chasing a “beachfront” experience. Look for places with solid recent reviews mentioning cleanliness, helpful staff, and decent Wi-Fi rather than atmosphere. A pool is a bonus if you want one last dip before or after the islands, but the real win is a quiet-ish spot where you can sleep properly, repack your bag, and recharge your phone before moving on.

What are better alternatives to Sihanoukville for cleaner beaches along Cambodia’s coast?

Absolutely. If you want that turquoise-water-and-soft-sand vibe, I’d push you toward Koh Rong or Koh Rong Sanloem instead. Koh Rong gives you a mix of livelier areas and quieter bays, while Koh Rong Sanloem is slower, sleepier, and more hammock-heavy, which is brilliant if you’re tired of noise and concrete. On the mainland, Kampot and Kep don’t win awards for beaches, but they deliver riverside life, countryside, seafood, and a mellow pace that still feel like “Cambodia” in a much more relaxed way.

How do I actually get from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville and then out to the islands?

The classic route is bus or minivan from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, then a ferry to Koh Rong or Koh Rong Sanloem. Buses and minibuses run several times a day, usually taking around 4–6 hours depending on traffic and roadworks, and you can book online or through guesthouses. From Sihanoukville, speed ferries to the islands typically take about 45–60 minutes and run multiple times a day in high season. I like to book my bus and first ferry in advance, but keep the return flexible in case I fall in love with an island and want to stay longer.

When is the best time of year to visit Sihanoukville and the Cambodian islands?

The most pleasant window is during the dry season, roughly November to April, when you get more sunshine, calmer seas, and easier boat crossings. December to February tends to feel the nicest overall, with heat that’s still manageable and relatively clear skies. The rainy season, from about May to October, brings heavier showers, choppier water, and the odd cancelled or bumpy ferry ride, but you also get fewer crowds and lusher landscapes. If your main goal is beach and island time, I’d still lean toward the dry months unless your dates are totally fixed.

Can I still go to Sihanoukville and the islands during rainy season?

Yes. You just need to be a bit more flexible. Expect passing downpours, especially in the afternoons, and be prepared for rougher crossings on the ferries on some days. Schedules can shift and the odd sailing gets cancelled if the weather is really bad, so don’t stack tight connections with flights or long-distance buses in the same day. On the plus side, accommodation is usually cheaper, it’s easier to find last-minute rooms, and you’ll share those island sunsets with fewer people.

Is Sihanoukville or the nearby islands suitable for families with kids?

It depends. I wouldn’t choose central Sihanoukville as a base for a beach holiday with children—the combination of traffic, construction, and messy shorelines is a lot. But some of the islands and coastal towns can work really well for families, especially if you pick calmer bays, kid-friendly bungalows, and places with on-site restaurants so you’re not walking around in the dark. Just factor in things like sun exposure, limited medical facilities, and the slightly chaotic nature of boat transfers when you decide how young you’re comfortable bringing kids along.

What should I pack if I’m visiting Sihanoukville and the islands, given the heat and garbage situation?

Light. I’d prioritize breathable clothing, a wide-brim hat, decent sunscreen, and comfortable sandals or flip-flops you don’t mind getting wet or a bit grimy. A reusable water bottle is non-negotiable, and a small dry bag is gold for boat days and sudden tropical downpours. I also like carrying a lightweight tote or stuff sack for snacks and small bits of trash so I’m not adding to the mess. If you’re sensitive to cuts or infections, pack a basic first-aid kit and something to clean small scrapes—rusty bottle caps and broken glass on neglected beaches aren’t exactly rare.

How can I be a more responsible traveler on Cambodia’s coast?

Start small. Bring a reusable bottle, refuse plastic bags and straws when you can, and make sure your own trash actually reaches a proper bin or gets packed out. If you feel up for it, spend ten or fifteen minutes picking up rubbish on a stretch of beach you’re already walking—one bag’s worth doesn’t sound like much, but it adds up. I also try to support guesthouses and cafes that clearly make an effort with recycling, refills, or clean-ups, even if they’re not perfect. You won’t “save” the coastline on your own, but you can travel in a way that makes things a little better instead of worse.

Are there any nicer corners or beaches near Sihanoukville still worth a quick look?

Maybe. Every now and then you’ll find a resort or small stretch of sand where the owners clearly care and keep things reasonably tidy, and sunset can still be beautiful even if the wider area is rough around the edges. The problem is that it’s very hit-or-miss, and you often have to stay at that specific property to fully enjoy their little pocket of beach. Personally, if I only had a few coastal days in Cambodia, I’d save my “proper” beach time for the islands or quieter towns and keep Sihanoukville strictly in the “transit and sleep” category.

What are common hassles or scams in Sihanoukville, and how do I avoid them?

Nothing wildly unique, but there are a few patterns. Overpriced tuk-tuk rides, creative stories about “closed” hotels or bus offices that just happen to require a new booking, and inflated prices around bus stations and ferry piers are all fairly standard. My approach is to agree on tuk-tuk prices before getting in, double-check bus and ferry information with my accommodation, and pay attention to my gut if a situation feels off. I also avoid gambling, shady “investment opportunities,” and random job offers entirely—that’s not the side of Cambodia I’m here to experience.

What kind of daily budget should I expect for the Cambodian coast if I mostly avoid Sihanoukville and focus on islands and smaller towns?

You can keep things fairly reasonable. On a backpacker budget, you might get by on around 30–50 USD per person per day if you’re sharing simple rooms, eating mostly local food, and not doing paid tours every day. A mid-range comfort zone with nicer guesthouses, some Western meals, and the occasional boat trip or activity will often land in the 50–90 USD range. If you’re looking at boutique stays, cocktails at sunset, and guided excursions most days, 100 USD and up per person isn’t hard to hit. The coast is still cheaper than many classic beach destinations, but it’s not the absolute rock-bottom bargain it once was.

Beach Time With a Conscience

Once you’ve seen a place go from “paradise” to “dump” in a few years, it changes how you travel. You can’t un-see that trail of plastic cups and bottles lining the high-tide mark.

You can’t fix everything, but you can stop contributing to the problem and actually help a little.

Choosing Better Accommodation

When you’re scanning places to stay, look out for small indicators that they care:

• They offer refill stations for drinking water
• They sell or lend reusable bottles instead of plastic ones
• They keep their stretch of beach reasonably clean without burning or dumping trash
• They mention environmental practices in their description (and reviews back it up)

It’s rarely perfect—but even small efforts are better than nothing.

Little Habits That Matter More Than You Think

A few simple habits make a big difference over a trip:

• Carry a reusable water bottle and refill where you can
• Keep a small cloth tote or stuff-sack for market runs and snacks
• Say no to plastic straws and cutlery unless you truly have no choice
• Pocket small rubbish you see on walks and drop it in a bin back in town

You won’t single-handedly clean the coast, but you also won’t be part of the reason it gets worse.

Joining (or Starting) a Mini Cleanup

You don’t need an NGO-branded T-shirt to pick up trash.

• If you see a sign for organized cleanups, join in for an hour. It’s an easy way to meet locals and other travelers.
• If not, choose one small patch of beach or riverside, set a 15–20 minute timer, and fill a bag.
• Take a quick word with your guesthouse or a nearby café about where to leave the bag so it actually gets collected.

It’s not glamorous, but there is something strangely satisfying about walking away from a bit of shoreline that’s visibly better than you found it.