Visiting Culloden and Clava Cairns: Touring The Scottish Highlands

On our first day of touring with Haggis Adventures we explored the Scottish Highlands including stops at the visitor center of the Battle of Culloden Moor and the mysterious Clava Cairn.

Battlefield of Culloden Moor

Standing on Culloden Moor I saw nothing but blue sky, white clouds and grassy fields dotted with sporadic trees. Upon first examination this seemed as quiet, remote and peaceful of a place you could possibly ever visit; however, a wisp of the wind revealed that Culloden Moor was the tragic battlefield grounds and final confrontation of the 1745 Jacobite Rising.

Dave, our gregarious guide from Haggis Adventures, (clad in a kilt, sporting an impressive ginger beard and wielding historical artifacts associated with the time period [various weapons and flags]) informed us of the significance of this now memorial site: “No jokes, no humor at all. This is a massive war grave where my ancestors and other people’s ancestors died needlessly. Just the utmost respect guys.”

Not far from our initial starting point stood a 6.1 meter memorial cairn with the following inscribed:

The Battle Of Culloden

THE BATTLE
OF CULLODEN
WAS FOUGHT ON THIS MOOR
16TH APRIL 1746
THE GRAVES OF THE
GALLANT HIGHLANDERS
WHO FOUGHT FOR
SCOTLAND & PRINCE CHARLIE,
ARE MARKED BY THE NAMES
OF THEIR CLAN

Dave continued explaining the significance of Culloden to the Scots and especially the Jacobite highlanders: “People come now to sing songs, tell stories and to remember on the 16th of April. A blind piper plays. He plays songs on the bagpipes for 45 minutes, which is the length that the battle lasted for. It tugs on your heartstrings.”

The Battle of Culloden, which took place on April 16, 1746 near Iverness in the Scottish Highlands, was the final confrontation of the 1945 Jacobite Rising. Jacobite forces under Bonnie Prince Charlie fought passionately against loyalist soldiers under the leadership of William Augustus – better know as the Duke of Cumberland. This bloody and ultimately quick conflict lasted less than an hour in which an estimated 1,500 to 2000 Jacobites were killed/wounded as opposed to significantly less casualties from the redcoats. The aftermath of the battle was a time of oppression for Jacobites who were brutally marginalized earning the Duke of Cumberland the title of ‘Butcher.’ Policing and civil penalties were implemented with the intention of weakening the Scottish clan system and Gaelic culture.

Most tragic is the grave post of the ‘Mixed Clans’ – members who were so brutally disfigured in the battle that their remains were unidentifiable. Their family name and clan ties forever wiped out from history.

Travel Video:

source: Nomadic Samuel and That Backpacker on Samuel and Audrey YouTube channel

However, the spirit, passion, courage and morale of the Jacobite Highland forces remains in tales told today: “Lord George Murray was a Jacobite General. He led a charge into the front-line of the British government army. Snapped his sword in two, lost his horse and came back out of the front line; he got another sword, got another horse and led a second charge in.”

This battlefield is protected by Historic Scotland where a visitor center has been functional since December, 2007. On the anniversary of the battle people come to pay their respects.

Dave, accurately summed up the realities of war and conflict: “One thing that is guaranteed in war is death. Death and destruction.”

As someone with a certain amount of Scottish ancestry, I couldn’t help but wonder how many of my relatives may have lost their lives on this very moor. Standing quietly on the field alone, I stopped to pay my respect with a minute of silence.

Battlefield of Culloden Moor: The Last Stand of the Jacobites

Culloden Moor, situated near Inverness in the Scottish Highlands, is a place of profound historical significance. At first glance, its sweeping fields and tranquil atmosphere might not hint at the turbulent events that unfolded here. Yet, on April 16, 1746, this quiet moor became the site of one of the most pivotal and tragic battles in British history—the Battle of Culloden.

A Turning Point in Scottish History

The Battle of Culloden marked the end of the Jacobite Rising of 1745–46, a movement aiming to restore the House of Stuart to the British throne. Led by Prince Charles Edward Stuart, affectionately known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, the Jacobites initially saw a series of successes. However, by the spring of 1746, their momentum had waned. Facing them were the government forces commanded by Prince William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, son of King George II.

The Jacobite army, numbering around 5,000 weary and ill-equipped men, stood against a well-rested and better-armed government force of approximately 9,000 soldiers. The stage was set for a decisive confrontation.

The Battle Unfolds

On that fateful morning, under a gray and somber sky, the two armies faced each other across the moor. The terrain was marshy and uneven—far from ideal for the Highlanders’ traditional charge.

The battle began with an exchange of artillery fire. The government’s superior cannons unleashed a devastating barrage, wreaking havoc on the Jacobite lines. Desperate to break the enemy’s momentum, the Jacobite commanders ordered a full-scale charge. The Highlanders, renowned for their fierce and fearless charges, surged forward.

But the boggy ground hindered their advance. Struggling through mud and under relentless cannon and musket fire, many fell before reaching the government lines. Those who made it faced disciplined troops armed with bayonets. The clash was brutal but brief. Within an hour, the Jacobite forces were decimated.

Estimates suggest that about 1,500 Jacobite soldiers were killed or wounded, while government casualties were significantly fewer—around 300 men. The defeat was catastrophic for the Jacobite cause.

The Aftermath and Its Consequences

The repercussions of the Battle of Culloden were swift and severe. The Duke of Cumberland earned the grim nickname “Butcher Cumberland” due to his ruthless actions following the battle.

• Immediate Reprisals: Wounded Jacobite soldiers were executed where they lay. Survivors were hunted down, and those suspected of supporting the Jacobites faced harsh punishments.
• Suppression of Highland Culture: The British government implemented laws to dismantle the clan system and suppress Gaelic culture. The Dress Act of 1746 banned the wearing of traditional Highland attire, including kilts and tartans. The Disarming Act prohibited Highlanders from bearing arms.
• Cultural Upheaval: These measures led to significant cultural loss and social upheaval in the Highlands. Traditional ways of life were disrupted, and many families were displaced.

The aftermath of Culloden marked the beginning of the end for the traditional Highland clan system. The ensuing years saw the Highland Clearances, during which many were forced from their lands, leading to mass emigration.

The Culloden Visitor Centre

Managed by the National Trust for Scotland, the Culloden Visitor Centre offers an immersive experience for visitors.

• Interactive Exhibits: The center features artifacts recovered from the battlefield, including weapons, clothing, and personal items. Interactive displays and multimedia presentations provide detailed insights into the events leading up to, during, and following the battle.
• Battlefield Tours: Guided tours allow visitors to walk the grounds, learning about the strategies employed and hearing personal stories of those who fought.
• Immersive Theatre: A 360-degree battle immersion theater recreates the intensity of the battle, helping visitors understand the chaos and magnitude of the conflict.

The center also provides resources for those interested in tracing ancestral connections to the clans involved in the battle.

Visiting Culloden Today

Culloden Moor is not just a historical site; it’s a place of remembrance and contemplation.

Tips for Visitors:

• Respect the Site: Remember that this is a war grave. Maintain a respectful demeanor while exploring the battlefield.
• Prepare for the Weather: The moor is exposed to the elements. Wear appropriate clothing and sturdy footwear, as conditions can be windy and wet.
• Allow Ample Time: To fully experience both the visitor center and the battlefield, plan to spend several hours.
• Photography: Photography is permitted, but be mindful of other visitors and the solemn nature of the site.

The Enduring Legacy

The Battle of Culloden remains a defining moment in Scottish history—a symbol of the end of the Jacobite cause and a catalyst for profound cultural change in the Highlands. Yet, despite the tragedy, Scottish culture and identity have endured and even flourished.

• Cultural Revival: There has been a resurgence of interest in Gaelic language, traditional music, and Highland customs. Festivals, such as the Highland Games, celebrate these traditions.
• Global Connections: Many descendants of Scottish emigrants around the world explore their heritage, fostering a global appreciation for Scottish history and culture.
• Educational Importance: Culloden serves as a powerful educational resource, teaching lessons about conflict, cultural suppression, and the resilience of a people.

Practical Information:

• Website: National Trust for Scotland – Culloden
• Address: Culloden Moor, Inverness IV2 5EU, Scotland
• Contact: +44 (0)1463 796090

Balnuaran of Clava (Clava Cairns)

Nestled in the tranquil countryside near Inverness, Scotland, the Clava Cairns—also known as Balnuaran of Clava—stand as a silent testament to the ingenuity and spirituality of Scotland’s ancient inhabitants. This prehistoric burial site, dating back to the Bronze Age approximately 4,000 years ago, captivates visitors with its enigmatic standing stones and intricate passage graves. Recognized as one of the most significant prehistoric sites in the Scottish Highlands, Clava Cairns offers a window into a world long past, inviting exploration and contemplation.

A Journey Through Time: The Significance of Clava Cairns

The Clava Cairns are a group of exceptionally well-preserved Bronze Age burial mounds and stone circles. Constructed by early settlers in the region, these cairns reflect sophisticated engineering skills and a deep understanding of astronomy and spirituality.

The Three Main Cairns:

1. Balnuaran of Clava (Central Ring Cairn)
2. Clava North Cairn (North-East Passage Grave)
3. Milton of Clava (South-West Passage Grave)

Each cairn has its unique features and mysteries, contributing to the overall significance of the site.

1. Balnuaran of Clava (Central Ring Cairn)

The Balnuaran of Clava, also known as the Clava Ring Cairn, is the most prominent and arguably the most impressive structure at the site. This cairn consists of a central circular stone mound surrounded by a ring of standing stones.

Architectural Features:

• Ring of Standing Stones: The outer circle comprises large stones strategically placed around the central cairn. These stones vary in height, with the tallest positioned to the southwest.
• Central Cairn: The cairn itself is a rubble mound that may have been used for ceremonial purposes, possibly without a roof.
• Solar Alignment: The stones are aligned to capture the light of the setting sun during the winter solstice, illuminating the site in a way that suggests ritualistic significance.

Cultural and Spiritual Significance:

The precise alignment with astronomical events indicates that the builders had advanced knowledge of celestial movements. The winter solstice alignment may symbolize themes of death and rebirth, common in many ancient cultures.

2. Clava North Cairn (North-East Passage Grave)

Located a short distance from the central cairn, the Clava North Cairn is similar in design but smaller in scale. This cairn features a passage grave, allowing access to the central chamber.

Architectural Features:

• Passage Entrance: A narrow corridor leads into the heart of the cairn, constructed with carefully placed stones.
• Burial Chamber: The central chamber may have housed the remains of notable individuals or been used for ritualistic purposes.
• Standing Stones: Like the central cairn, it is encircled by standing stones, though fewer in number.

Astronomical Alignment:

The entrance passage aligns with the southwest, directly facing the setting sun during the winter solstice. This alignment reinforces the site’s connection to solar events and suggests a unified design philosophy among the cairns.

3. Milton of Clava (South-West Passage Grave)

The Milton of Clava, though the smallest and most weathered of the three cairns, adds depth to the site’s historical narrative.

Architectural Features:

• Partially Ruined Structure: Time has taken its toll, and parts of the cairn have collapsed or been removed, but the foundational elements remain visible.
• Passage Grave Design: Similar to the Clava North Cairn, it includes a passage leading to what would have been a central chamber.
• Remaining Standing Stones: Some of the surrounding stones are still in place, hinting at its original grandeur.

Historical Importance:

Despite its condition, the Milton of Clava offers valuable insights into the construction techniques and cultural practices of the Bronze Age inhabitants. It completes the triad of cairns, each contributing to the site’s overall harmony and purpose.

The Mysteries of Clava Cairns: Theories and Interpretations

The Clava Cairns have long intrigued archaeologists, historians, and visitors alike. Several theories attempt to unravel the site’s purpose and the intentions of its builders.

1. Ceremonial and Burial Purposes

• Burial Site: Evidence suggests that the cairns were used as burial chambers, housing the remains of important community members.
• Ceremonial Functions: The elaborate construction and alignment indicate that the site may have hosted rituals or ceremonies, possibly related to solar events.

2. Astronomical Observations

• Solar Alignments: The precise positioning of the cairns and standing stones with the winter solstice sunset points to advanced astronomical knowledge.
• Agricultural Calendar: Alignments may have helped mark important dates for agricultural activities, guiding planting and harvesting cycles.

3. Spiritual and Religious Significance

• Connection to the Afterlife: The alignment with the setting sun, often associated with endings or transitions, could symbolize the journey to the afterlife.
• Ancestral Worship: The cairns may have served as focal points for honoring ancestors and maintaining a connection between the living and the dead.

Architectural Mastery: Construction Techniques

The construction of the Clava Cairns showcases remarkable engineering skills, especially considering the tools and technology available during the Bronze Age.

Building Materials:

• Local Stones: Builders used stones sourced from nearby rivers and quarries, selecting specific types for different parts of the structures.
• Graded Stone Circles: The standing stones are carefully graded in height, creating a harmonious aesthetic and potentially serving symbolic purposes.

Construction Methods:

• Dry Stone Technique: Stones were meticulously fitted together without the use of mortar, demonstrating precision and craftsmanship.
• Passage Alignment: The orientation of passages required careful planning and understanding of astronomical events.

Visiting Clava Cairns Today: A Timeless Experience

The Clava Cairns offer a unique opportunity to connect with Scotland’s ancient past. Visitors can explore the site freely, immersing themselves in the tranquil atmosphere and pondering the mysteries that remain unsolved.

What to Expect:

• Serene Environment: The site is surrounded by lush greenery and offers a peaceful setting away from the bustle of modern life.
• Educational Signage: Informative panels provide historical context, archaeological findings, and explanations of the cairns’ features.
• Accessibility: Pathways allow for easy exploration, though the ground can be uneven in places.

Tips for Visitors:

• Respect the Site: As a protected historical monument, it’s important to treat the cairns with care. Climbing on the stones or disturbing the structures is discouraged.
• Photography: The site offers excellent photographic opportunities, especially during sunrise or sunset when the lighting enhances the stones’ textures.
• Weather Preparedness: The Scottish weather can be unpredictable. Wearing comfortable shoes and bringing waterproof clothing is advisable.

The Cultural Impact: Clava Cairns in Modern Media and Folklore

The Clava Cairns continue to influence culture and capture the imagination:

1. Inspiration for Literature and Television

• Outlander Series: The site is said to have inspired the fictional Craigh na Dun in Diana Gabaldon’s “Outlander” novels and subsequent television adaptation. Fans often visit to experience the mystical atmosphere depicted in the story.

2. Local Legends and Folklore

• Mystical Energies: Legends speak of the cairns possessing supernatural powers or serving as gateways to other realms.
• Fairy Lore: Some tales suggest that the site is inhabited by fairies or spirits, adding an element of enchantment.

The Enduring Mystery:

Despite extensive research, many questions about the cairns remain unanswered:

• Who exactly were the people who built them?
• What beliefs drove them to create such structures?
• How did they acquire the knowledge and skills required?

These mysteries add to the site’s allure, inviting visitors to form their interpretations and connections.

Cultural Preservation:

Efforts to preserve and study the Clava Cairns ensure that future generations can continue to learn from and appreciate this remarkable heritage site. The cairns are protected under Scottish law, with organizations working to maintain their integrity and promote responsible tourism.

Practical Information for Visitors

• Location: Approximately 6 miles east of Inverness, off the B9091 road.
• Admission: Free entry.
• Opening Hours: Open year-round during daylight hours.
• Facilities: Limited facilities on-site; restrooms and dining options are available in nearby Inverness.
• Accessibility: Paths are unpaved and may be uneven; suitable footwear is recommended.

Not far from Culloden was our next stop – Clava Cairns. In an area with more forest and shade stood a mysterious Bronze age circular chamber tomb cairn.

The significance of the cairns is one that is still highly debated by academics today: “Every winter solstice people with professor suits on and they all argue with each other basically. These chambers are older than the pyramids. Built by teenagers because the lifespan at the time would have been around 30.”

As we huddled down as a group around the perimeter of the inner cairns circle, Dave continued: “The sun would set in alignment with fire and smoke. Very very spiritual.”

Those who have taken stones from the cairns have documented bad things happening to them prompting the stones to be returned, which Dave jokingly warned us about: “Don’t go on facebook (and say) Dave my arm is falling off!”

Overall, our first day visiting the highlands was an eye opening experience not only because of the stunning Highlands scenery but moreover because of the historical significance of the areas we visited.

Tips For Visiting The Scottish Highlands

The Scottish Highlands are a truly remarkable destination that should be on every traveler’s bucket list. This stunning region is steeped in history, culture, and natural beauty, offering an abundance of experiences for visitors to enjoy. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a first-time visitor, here are some tips to help you make the most of your trip to the Scottish Highlands.

1. Plan Ahead: Preparation Is Key

Why Planning Matters

The Scottish Highlands are vast, and there’s so much to see and do. Planning your trip in advance ensures that you make the most of your time and don’t miss out on any must-see attractions.

Tips for Effective Planning

• Research Destinations: Identify the places that interest you the most. Are you fascinated by history, captivated by nature, or eager to immerse yourself in local culture?
• Book Accommodations Early: Especially during peak season, hotels, B&Bs, and hostels can fill up quickly. Booking in advance secures your spot and often gets you better rates.
• Schedule Tours and Activities: Popular tours, such as wildlife safaris or guided hikes, may have limited availability. Reserve your spot ahead of time.

Personal Insight

When I first visited the Highlands, I underestimated travel times between destinations. The winding roads and frequent photo stops meant it took longer than expected to get from place to place. Having a flexible yet well-thought-out plan made all the difference.

2. Rent a Car: Embrace the Freedom

The Benefits of Driving

While public transportation exists, it doesn’t always reach the more remote or off-the-beaten-path locations. Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace and discover hidden gems.

Driving Tips

• Left-Side Driving: Remember, in Scotland, you’ll be driving on the left side of the road. Take some time to adjust, especially if you’re from a right-side driving country.
• Single-Track Roads: Many rural roads are single-lane with passing places. Drive cautiously and be prepared to yield.
• Navigation: GPS can be spotty in remote areas. Consider bringing a physical map as a backup.

Personal Insight

Some of my most memorable experiences came from spontaneous detours—like stumbling upon a secluded loch or an ancient stone circle not marked on any map. Having a car made these adventures possible.

3. Dress for the Weather: Be Prepared for Anything

The Unpredictable Climate

The Scottish Highlands are notorious for their rapidly changing weather. You might experience sunshine, rain, wind, and even snow all in one day.

Packing Essentials

• Layer Up: Wear layers that you can add or remove as the temperature changes.
• Waterproof Clothing: A good waterproof jacket and pants are essential. Don’t forget waterproof footwear.
• Accessories: Hats, gloves, and scarves can be lifesavers, even in summer.

Personal Insight

I set out on a hike under clear skies, only to be caught in a sudden downpour an hour later. Thanks to my waterproof gear, the unexpected rain didn’t dampen my spirits or my plans.

4. Explore the Great Outdoors: Nature at Its Best

Embrace the Landscape

The Highlands are home to some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world. From majestic mountains to serene lochs and rugged coastlines, the natural beauty is awe-inspiring.

Activities to Consider

• Hiking and Walking Trails: Trails range from leisurely strolls to challenging climbs like Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak.
• Wildlife Watching: Spot red deer, golden eagles, otters, and dolphins. Guided wildlife tours can enhance your experience.
• Water Activities: Kayaking, canoeing, or even wild swimming in the lochs for the adventurous.

Personal Insight

Hiking the Quiraing on the Isle of Skye was like stepping into another world. The surreal rock formations and panoramic views are etched in my memory forever.

5. Visit Historic Sites: A Journey Through Time

Rich Historical Heritage

The Highlands are steeped in history, from ancient ruins to battlefields that shaped Scotland’s destiny.

Must-Visit Sites

• Culloden Battlefield: Walk the grounds of the last pitched battle on British soil and visit the informative visitor center.
• Eilean Donan Castle: One of the most photographed castles, situated on a small island at the point where three great sea lochs meet.
• Clava Cairns: Explore these Bronze Age burial sites and feel the mystique of ancient Scotland.

Personal Insight

Standing amidst the stones at Clava Cairns as the sun set was a mystical experience. The silence and the history felt almost tangible.

6. Sample the Local Cuisine: A Gastronomic Adventure

Taste of Scotland

Scottish cuisine is hearty and flavorful, with a focus on fresh, local ingredients.

Dishes to Try

• Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties: A classic dish that might surprise you with how delicious it is.
• Cullen Skink: A comforting soup made from smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions.
• Cranachan: A delightful dessert made with raspberries, cream, oats, honey, and a splash of whisky.

Personal Insight

Initially hesitant, I tried haggis at a local pub, and it was fantastic! Paired with live folk music, it made for a memorable evening.

7. Attend a Traditional Highland Games: Feel the Spirit

Cultural Extravaganza

Highland games are a celebration of Scottish culture, featuring traditional sports, music, and dance.

What to Expect

• Athletic Events: Watch competitors in events like caber tossing, hammer throwing, and tug-of-war.
• Music and Dance: Enjoy bagpipe bands and Highland dancers in full regalia.
• Community Atmosphere: Experience the warmth and pride of local communities.

Personal Insight

Attending the Braemar Gathering was a highlight of my trip. The energy was infectious, and it gave me deeper insight into Scottish traditions.

8. Visit a Whisky Distillery: Discover the Water of Life

Whisky Tasting

Scotland is renowned for its whisky, and the Highlands are home to some of the finest distilleries.

Distillery Experiences

• Guided Tours: Learn about the whisky-making process from malting to maturation.
• Tasting Sessions: Sample different expressions and discover your favorite.
• Whisky Trails: Follow routes like the Malt Whisky Trail to visit multiple distilleries.

Personal Insight

Visiting the Glenfiddich Distillery was both educational and delightful. The craftsmanship and history behind each bottle added depth to each sip.

9. Take a Road Trip: The Journey Is the Destination

Scenic Drives

The Highlands offer some of the most picturesque driving routes.

Routes to Consider

• North Coast 500: Often called Scotland’s Route 66, this 516-mile loop showcases the best of the Highlands.
• Loch Ness Circuit: Circle the famous loch and perhaps catch a glimpse of Nessie.
• Ardnamurchan Peninsula: Venture to the westernmost point of mainland Britain.

Personal Insight

Driving along the North Coast 500, I was constantly pulling over to capture the stunning vistas. Each turn brought a new breathtaking scene.

10. Embrace the Culture: Immerse Yourself Fully

Cultural Immersion

The Highlands have a rich and vibrant culture, deeply rooted in tradition.

Ways to Engage

• Attend a Ceilidh: A traditional Scottish social gathering with music and dancing.
• Live Music in Pubs: Enjoy folk music sessions, often featuring local musicians.
• Learn Gaelic Phrases: Locals appreciate the effort, and it’s a fun way to connect.

Personal Insight

Joining a ceilidh in a small village hall was an unforgettable experience. Despite my two left feet, the locals welcomed me into the dances with open arms.

In Conclusion

So pack your bags, open your heart to adventure, and embrace all that the Scottish Highlands have to offer. As the Scots say, “Ceud mìle fàilte”—a hundred thousand welcomes await you.

#blogmanay is brought to you by Edinburgh’s Hogmanay and is supported by ETAG, EventScotland, Homecoming Scotland,VisitScotland, Edinburgh Festivals, Marketing Edinburgh and co-creators Haggis Adventures. Created and produced by Unique Events. As always, all opinions expressed here are entirely our own.