Mirador de los Cóndores vs. Chorrillo del Salto: Which One Deserves Your First Day?

If there is one universal truth about arriving in El Chaltén, it is this: your brain is writing checks your body cannot cash.

You have just stepped off the 3.5-hour bus ride from El Calafate. You are vibrating with excitement because you have finally arrived in the “Trekking Capital of Argentina”. You see the jagged, shark-tooth silhouette of Mount Fitz Roy looming over the town like a movie backdrop, and you think, “I should climb that. Right now. Immediately.”

But then, reality sets in.

Your legs are stiff from the bus. Your stomach is making whale noises because you haven’t eaten since that bagel stop at Olivia’s in El Calafate. And, if you are anything like Audrey and me, you are currently operating at a fitness level best described as “Bulbous Plumptitude”. We arrived in Patagonia not as lean, mean trekking machines, but as enthusiastic foodies who had spent the last two weeks eating our weight in empanadas and Malbec.

So, you face a critical decision on Day 1. You need a “warm-up” hike. You need something that delivers a massive visual Return on Investment (ROI) without requiring a medevac helicopter.

Enter the two heavyweights of the “Easy Hike” division: Mirador de los Cóndores and Chorrillo del Salto.

Most guidebooks list them both as “easy.” Most blogs toss them in as footnotes. But for the traveler who has just arrived—or the hiker on Day 6 whose quads are staging a violent mutiny —the choice between these two is surprisingly complex. One offers a panoramic, wind-blasted view of the world; the other offers a sheltered, Zen-like walk to a waterfall.

In this ultimate showdown, we are going to pit these two trails against each other. We will analyze the elevation, the wind chill, the crowd factor, and most importantly, which post-hike meal (pizza or waffles) they best justify.

Let’s get ready to rumble.

The “Tale of the Tape”: A Head-to-Head Comparison

Before we dive into the sweaty details of our personal experience, let’s look at the hard data. This matrix is designed for the analytical planner who wants the facts without the fluff.

The “Arrival Day” Decision Matrix

Contender #1: Mirador de los Cóndores

The “Adrenaline” Choice

We chose this hike for our arrival day, and I will be honest: we nearly messed it up.

After checking into our room at the Vertical Lodge (which, by the way, was shockingly spacious—king-sized bed, bathtub, and views that made us want to weep with joy ), we made a classic rookie mistake. We got distracted by food.

It was 6:45 PM. Sunset was officially at 9:45 PM. In our minds, we had “plenty of time.” So, we wandered into Patagonicus, a pizza joint that looked cool, and ordered a Napolitana with ham. It was glorious—eight slices of cheesy, garlicky perfection that cost us about 600 pesos (roughly $10 USD at the time).

We sat there, chewing slowly, enjoying the warmth, until we realized we were “buzzer beating” the daylight. We shoved the last crusts into our mouths, skipped the celebratory beer (a tragedy in its own right), and speed-walked to the trailhead.

The Climb: Short, Steep, and Sweat-Inducing

The hike starts at the Guardaparque Ceferino Fonzo Visitor Center, just south of the bridge over the Fitz Roy River. If you are staying in the center of town, just getting to the start line is a 10-15 minute warm-up walk.

The trail doesn’t waste time. It is a steady, dusty uphill grind on a well-maintained dirt path. Within the first kilometer, I turned to Audrey, breathless, and said, “I’m feeling it already”. It’s not that it’s technically hard—there is no scrambling, no dangerous scree—but it is unrelenting. It demands that you wake up your glutes immediately.

But as you climb, something magical happens. The higher you go, the more the landscape reveals itself. You stop looking at your boots and start looking at the horizon.

The Payoff: The “Frontier” Perspective

When you finally crest the ridge (about 45 minutes later if you’ve eaten as much pizza as we did ), the view floors you.

From the top, El Chaltén looks like a toy village. You see the grid of colorful houses—bright reds, yellows, and greens—huddled together in the valley floor, protected by the canyon walls. It gives you a true sense of the “frontier feel” of this town. Unlike the tourist polish of El Calafate, Chaltén feels raw, isolated, and adventurous.

To your north, the Fitz Roy massif rises like a jagged crown. To your south, the turquoise vastness of Lake Viedma stretches into the steppe. And above you? The namesake of the trail.

The Condors: This hill acts as a natural thermal generator. The wind hits the cliff face and shoots upward, creating an elevator for Andean Condors who are too lazy to flap their massive wings. We saw three of them circling right above our heads—majestic, prehistoric, and huge. It is one of the few places in the world where you can look a flying condor in the eye.

The Verdict on Cóndores

This is the hike you do to say, “I have arrived.” It orients you. It shows you the lay of the land. It gives you that first, intoxicating taste of Patagonian grandeur without wrecking you for the big trek the next day.

Contender #2: Chorrillo del Salto

The “Zen” Choice

If Mirador de los Cóndores is the hike of “anticipation,” Chorrillo del Salto is the hike of “recovery.”

We saved this for Day 6, our final day in El Chaltén. By this point, our bodies were broken. We had conquered the 20+ kilometer Laguna de los Tres (where the final kilometer nearly ended our marriage). We had survived a “horrendous” weather day where the wind was so insane we couldn’t even stand up outside. We had trekked the 18-kilometer Laguna Torre loop.

We were tired. We were stiff. We were effectively waddling.

But we couldn’t just sit in the hotel room. We are “Faux Trekkers,” after all—we have appearances to maintain. We needed a hike that felt like an adventure but treated our knees with the tenderness of a loving grandmother.

The Walk: A Tunnel of Green

Chorrillo del Salto is located about 3km north of town on the road to Lago del Desierto. You can drive or take a taxi to the trailhead parking lot, which makes the walk a laughable 15 minutes. But we chose to walk from town because we needed to burn off the “bulbous plumptitude”.

The walk is flat. Gloriously, beautifully flat.

Once you leave the road and enter the trail, the world changes. You step into a forest of Nothofagus (Southern Beech) trees. The wind—that constant, screaming banshee of Patagonia—suddenly dies down. The trees act as a natural windbreak, creating a silent, fragrant tunnel of green.

For the first time in six days, we didn’t have to lean into the wind. We didn’t have to shout to hear each other. We just walked, breathing in the scent of damp earth and pine. It was therapeutic.

The Payoff: The Bridal Veil

The waterfall itself is lovely. It’s a slender column of water dropping about 20 meters into a rocky pool. Is it Iguazu Falls? No. Is it Niagara? Absolutely not. But in a landscape defined by aggressive, jagged granite peaks, there is something deeply soothing about the soft, rhythmic sound of falling water.

We found a rock, sat down, and just… existed. There was no pressure to “make it to the summit.” There was no time crunch. It was just us, the trees, and the water.

The Verdict on Chorrillo

This is the hike you do when you need a hug from Mother Nature. It is perfect for families, for rainy days (the trees provide cover), or for days when your legs refuse to lift higher than a few inches off the ground.

The Decision Logic: How to Choose Your Destiny

Still torn? I get it. You have limited time, and the FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out) is real. To help you make the definitive choice, I have created a series of “Decision Matrices” based on different travel scenarios.

Scenario A: The “Wind Factor” Audit

Patagonia’s wind is not a weather event; it is a physical entity that hates you.

Scenario B: The “Photographer’s” Dilemma

What kind of camera gear are you lugging?

Scenario C: The “Energy Level” Check

Be honest with yourself. How do you feel?

The “Foodie Recovery” Plan: Pairing Hikes with Meals

In the world of Nomadic Samuel, a hike is not finished until the calories have been replenished—preferably with interest. We don’t just hike for views; we hike to justify the sheer volume of food we plan to consume.

Through extensive A/B testing (and waistline expansion), we have determined the scientifically perfect food pairings for these two trails.

1. The Cóndores Pairing: Pizza & Beer

The Vibe: High energy, celebratory, “Welcome to Town.”

The Venue: Patagonicus. The Order: A large Napolitana Pizza (Tomato, Ham, Cheese, Garlic) + A Craft Stout or Red Ale. Why: Mirador de los Cóndores is often done in the evening. Nothing screams “perfect night” like watching the sun set over the mountains, hiking down by twilight, and walking straight into a warm, noisy pizzeria. The salty, cheesy carbs are exactly what your body craves after a steep climb. Our Experience: We made the mistake of eating before the hike. Do not do this. Hiking on a stomach full of 8 slices of pizza is a recipe for heartburn. Hike first, feast second.

2. The Chorrillo Pairing: Waffles & Coffee

The Vibe: Cozy, indulgent, relaxing.

The Venue: La Waflería. The Order: A sweet waffle with Dulce de Leche, bananas, and cream. Paired with a large Latte. Why: Chorrillo del Salto is a “soft” adventure. It pairs perfectly with “soft” food. After walking through the forest, you want to sit in a warm cafe, play cards (as we did for hours ), and sip coffee while watching the wind rage outside. It feels civilized. It feels like a hug for your stomach.

3. The “I Did Both” Pairing: The Burger Beast

The Vibe: Gluttonous victory.

The Venue: La Zorra Taproom. The Order: The Bacon Burger with loaded cheesy fries and a pint of IPA. Why: If you decide to be a hero and do both hikes in one day (or combine Chorrillo with the Águilas extension), you have graduated to the “Burger Tier.” You need protein. You need grease. La Zorra’s burgers reminded me of Shake Shack on steroids. It’s loud, it’s fun, and it’s the perfect place to toast to your “Faux Trekker” success.

Detailed Trail Logistics

Before you lace up your boots, here are the nitty-gritty details you need to know.

Access & Fees

This is the boring part, but it’s important because things in El Chaltén are changing.

• Mirador de los Cóndores: This trail starts at the Guardaparque Ceferino Fonzo Visitor Center. As of the 2024/2025 season, El Chaltén has begun implementing access fees for the National Park trails. You will likely encounter a checkpoint here. Ensure you have purchased your National Park Ticket online or at the entrance.
• Chorrillo del Salto: Technically, this falls within the park boundaries, but enforcement here is spotty. If you walk along the road, there is often no one checking tickets. However, we always recommend having your pass valid and ready, just in case.

Navigation

• Cóndores: You cannot get lost. The trail is wide, marked, and usually full of people. It’s a conga line of happiness.
• Chorrillo: Follow the road (Ruta 41) north. You will share the first part of the road with cars (dusty!), so bring a buff to cover your face. Look for the trailhead sign on the left.

What to Pack

• Windbreaker: Non-negotiable for both, but critical for Cóndores.
• Water: Bring a bottle. There is no water on the Cóndores hill. You can drink from the stream at Chorrillo if you have a filter, but it’s better to carry your own.
• Sunscreen: The ozone layer over Patagonia is thin. Even on cloudy days, you will burn.
• Headlamp: If you do the sunset hike at Cóndores, bring a light for the descent. It gets dark fast once the sun dips below the Andes.

Final Verdict: Which One Wins?

So, you have one day. Or maybe you have just a few hours of energy left in your legs. Which one do you choose?

Choose Mirador de los Cóndores If:

• It is your first day in El Chaltén.
• The weather is relatively clear.
• You want that “I’m in Patagonia!” profile picture immediately.
• You need to orient yourself with the town layout.
• You want to earn your pizza.

Choose Chorrillo del Salto If:

• It is extremely windy (gusts > 50 km/h).
• Your legs are sore from previous hikes.
• You are hiking with small children or elderly parents.
• You want solitude and silence rather than adrenaline.
• You want to earn your waffle.

The Nomadic Samuel Solution

Why choose?

El Chaltén has long summer days. In December, the sun rises at 5:00 AM and sets at 10:30 PM. You have over 17 hours of daylight!

My recommendation? Do Chorrillo del Salto in the morning as a warm-up stroll with coffee. Have a nap. Eat a waffle. Then, hit Mirador de los Cóndores at 8:00 PM for sunset.

You get the waterfall, you get the view, and most importantly, you justify eating lunch, dinner, and a mid-afternoon snack. And really, isn’t that what trekking is all about?

See you on the trail (or at the burger joint).

What do you think? Are you Team Condor or Team Waterfall? Let us know in the comments below!

FAQ: The “Nitty Gritty” of Your First Day in El Chaltén

1. Can I do both hikes in one day?

Absolutely. In fact, if you are feeling ambitious (or just ate a really large lunch), this is a great strategy. I’d recommend doing Chorrillo del Salto in the morning or early afternoon when the sun is high and penetrates the forest canopy. Then, head back to town for a “siesta” (and maybe a pastry), and tackle Mirador de los Cóndores around 7:00 PM or 8:00 PM to catch the golden hour and sunset. It’s the perfect “surf and turf” of hiking days.

2. Do I need to pay an entrance fee?

Yes. In the past, this was the big question. For years, hiking in El Chaltén was completely free. However, things have changed recently with the introduction of National Park fees for the Northern Zone trails. You should expect a checkpoint at the Guardaparque Ceferino Fonzo (the start of the Cóndores trail). While enforcement at Chorrillo del Salto can be a bit more sporadic since it follows a public road part of the way, it is technically inside the park. The safest bet? Buy the pass online or at the entrance station so you don’t get turned around by a ranger when you’re just trying to see a waterfall.

3. Which hike is better if I have bad knees?

Chorrillo del Salto, without hesitation. The trail to the waterfall is flatter than a pancake for the vast majority of the route. There is almost no impact on your joints, and the ground is soft forest floor or packed dirt. Mirador de los Cóndores, while short, involves a steady, repetitive uphill climb and a downhill braking session that can be grumpy on sensitive knees. If your joints are staging a protest, go for the waterfall.

4. Can I hike these in sneakers?

Technically, yes, but with a caveat. Chorrillo del Salto is essentially a walk; you could do it in Converse if you really wanted to (though I don’t recommend it). Mirador de los Cóndores, however, is dusty and dry. The dirt can get slippery on the descent, especially if it’s windy. While you don’t need heavy-duty mountaineering boots, a pair of trail runners with good grip will save you from an embarrassing cartoon-style slip in front of the tour groups.

5. Are there bathrooms on the trails?

No. Once you leave the trailhead, you are on your own. For Mirador de los Cóndores, there are facilities at the Visitor Center at the very bottom, but nothing up top. For Chorrillo del Salto, you are out in nature. Please follow “Leave No Trace” principles if nature calls—but honestly, the hikes are short enough (1.5 to 3 hours) that most people can hold it until they get back to a café in town.

6. Is it safe to hike alone?

Yup. Both of these trails are very popular and close to town. You will rarely be out of sight of other hikers, especially on Mirador de los Cóndores. I felt safer hiking here than I do walking in some big cities. Just use common sense, tell your hotel where you’re going, and bring a windbreaker.

7. Can I bring my dog?

No. I know, there are cute dogs roaming all over the town of El Chaltén, and they might even try to follow you. But once you cross into the National Park jurisdiction (which both trails are), dogs are strictly prohibited. This is to protect the local wildlife, particularly the endangered Huemul deer. Be the bad guy and tell Fido to stay in town—he’ll probably just go find a butcher shop anyway.

8. Will I see pumas?

It is extremely unlikely on these specific trails. Pumas generally avoid the high-traffic areas near the town center where these hikes are located. While Patagonia is puma territory, these big cats are elusive and shy. You are much more likely to see a condor, a caracara, or maybe a European hare darting across the steppe.

9. What if the wind forecast is crazy (70+ km/h)?

If the wind is howling, skip Mirador de los Cóndores. Seriously. Being up on that exposed ridge in gale-force winds is not “adventure,” it’s exfoliation by sandblasting. Head to Chorrillo del Salto instead. The valley walls and the Nothofagus forest provide a surprising amount of shelter. You might still hear the wind roaring above the trees, but you won’t be fighting to stay upright.

10. Can I fly my drone?

Negative. El Chaltén is a “No Drone Zone” within the National Park. Rangers are quite strict about this because the noise disturbs the nesting condors and eagles (and the hikers trying to enjoy the silence). Keep the DJI Mavic in the bag and use your camera instead; the birds will thank you.

11. Is there cell service on the trails?

It’s El Chaltén, so “cell service” is a generous term even in town. However, ironically, you often get better signal at the top of Mirador de los Cóndores than you do in your hotel room because you have a direct line of sight to the towers. Chorrillo del Salto is deeper in the valley, so expect zero signal there. Treat it as a digital detox.

12. Should I add the “Águilas” extension to the Cóndores hike?

If you have the energy, absolutely yes. It adds about 30-45 minutes of flat walking across the plateau. While Cóndores gives you the “town and peaks” view, Mirador de las Águilas gives you the “end of the world” view over Lake Viedma and the steppe. It feels totally different—vast, empty, and windy. It’s a great way to get two distinct landscapes for the price of one uphill climb.